I got lucky and managed to get mine direct from a Ford dealer, brand new for Ł8, who was having a clearout. The 10lb hammer couldnt budge it and I didnt want to bang up the cross member any more so last night I broke out the torch and melted the stupid things off. Ive been reading all of the threads about levelling kits and today I figured I'd install mine. Should I be trying to hit the torsion bar forward or backwards or doesn't fit in the a-arm from either end? I'd love to hear from someone who knows about this in task in depth. If you're not farmilliar with that truck than why are you giving someone advice on that truck? Don't kill him though, that would be too kind. Nice write up, except I believe the harsher ride is because of the angle of the control arms and not because there is more preload on the bars.
Now when you're done, take your truck out for a drive to settle the suspension and then measure for a final time. I've tried to pound them out and they won't budge. So when you add a spacer it is increasing the angle of the suspension which is increasing the load on the spring which is compressing the spring more therefore adding more preload to the spring. That's a great point, let's see if I can clarify what I wrote. The fact that I still need to work and pay bills means that I'll need minimal down time. Next use the torsion key removal tool if you dont have the tool use a c-clamp and a small long bolt put the small bolt in the hole near where the other bolt went in now push the key back up and remove the little space thing theat the actual bolt came out of and then loosen the c-clamp and your torsion key should be down enough that the tension is no longer on the torsion bar now if you want to take the lower arm off and cut it out you wont have any snap from the torsion bar while doing that removal and replacement. Each end of the bar usually has a hex-shaped head.
If you want to raise up the front of your 2002 F-150, you can do so in about an hour with some basic tools. Registration is fast, simple, and absolutely free so please,! All coil springs have a progressive load, that is as you compress a spring the amount of force it takes to compress it greatly increases. From my perspective it looks as though the hexagon socket on the control arm just slides over the torsion bar so I can simply slice the old control arm at the socket with an angle grinder being careful not to damage the torsion bar and this should free everything up and I wouldn't have to worry about removing the cross-member to free up the keys which are also seized. Q: How much does it cost? Adjust headlights back to proper settings. The end in the lower control arm rotates or twists as the lower control arm moves up and down. I'm late to the party here, but I was curious how you ended up getting them loose.
I then sanded them down, used Rust-converter, and then primed and painted them as well as the keys. Unbolt the front shaft from the transfer case only and wire to the side with a coat hanger. Had it soaking for days. Then down and out towards the front. The torsion bar is contained underneath the truck so you will need to raise the F-150 to access the torsion bar. Just your wording sounds like there is still an open possibility of this as being true.
After a few good hits with an 8lb hammer, I used a 12-ton hydraulic puller to push the bars out of the arms. Pull the torsion bar down and to the rear as far as it will go. All the same bearing though. Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts. There is a small dimple on the center of the arm. Here is the tire chart on what will fit with what lift. We hope installing your Rough Country lift kit is a positive experience.
Both ends won't move at all? So you pounded through the rear hole in the crossmember, pounding forward to knock the front of the torsion bar through the lower control arm and the rear end of it out of the crossmember and adjuster arm? With the vehicle on level ground set the emergency brake and block the rear tires. Then once again at time of project. Remove all screws holding in the plastic around the door handle. Support the trans first with a jack and a block of wood before removing. Reason is that the center shaft that's running through the 4x4 transmission is longer so the transfer case will slide up on it. The heat draws the oil to it.
The more preload the less smooth it will be over bumps. After the pressure has been removed from the torsion bar adjuster, remove the bolt and adjuster block. Remove the transmission vent hose clip from the bracket, if equipped. They don't look as if they'd live very long on a truck carrying a plow. Reinstall the wheels and tires and tighten wheels using a 22mm socket.
Its such a easy looking thing to remove, but when it gets rusted and seized into place what a horror story! Then you unbolt it from the transmission. Remove the rear propeller shaft. If the torsion bar malfunctions or is damaged in an accident, you can easily replace it with a new one in a little over an hour. First, block the tires of the truck, engage the parking brake. There is some controversy over cranking the torsion bar adjustment keys to help give the truck a leveled look, I will comment on what I know. Install the front road wheel and tire. Here is what I have read in a Haynes manual: Install a puller, with fingers hooked around the flange running along each side of the crossmember; make sure the puller bolt is centered on the dimple in the torsion bar adjuster arm; tighten the puller bolt until all tension is removed from the adjuster nut.
For additional information, refer to the procedure in this section. So you will either need to pay for an alignment or do it yourself. Remove the rear drive shaft from the differential and pull it out of the transfer case. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air suspension system. Install the supplied u-bolts and tighten using a 22mm wrench. Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt. Remove the tires and wheels.
Is this stock or did a previous owner possibly already add a slight lift kit? Ive got the torsion keys unloaded and loose and the cross member loose. Remove the transmission shift control cable clip from the transfer case. Make sure you pull the plug…. Disconnect the encoder motor electrical connector. Please read all the instructions before beginning the installation. The torsion bar is still stuck in place though. Laying the old key on top of the new they almost look identcal though.