Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there. You won't get any check engine light when this problem occurs. In these pictures, the turbocharger has been removed, but you can certainly still remove the tank without removing the turbo. The service manual pages for this operation can be found. Looks like this now: Now you can remove the fuel lines leading to the tank.
The insulation was then zip-tied around it. The screws from the ash tray need to be removed. Posted on Apr 27, 2009 The fuel pump relay should have one terminal to it that is hot at all times. Here is a diagram from the service manual showing the layout of all the pieces. The ground wire was also zip-tied in place so that it will not move around either.
The plastic piece around the center vents needs to be removed next. The fuel pump is directly under the centre console about the ashtray area if im right if you need to check for voltage at the plugs. Here some insulation from speaker wire was used to wrap the connection after soldering Thanks to my brother Friedl for help and idea! No error codes, light just flashes to indicate no malfunction. I found that if I maintained upward pressure on the harness while trying to release the locking tabs, I was able to free one side, then the other. Theres also a stupid resistor pack that allows the pump to have 2 speeds. You need to remove the following lines: 1. Good luck, please comment and rate thanks Feb 04, 2011 try taking off the air cleaners air duct that goes to the engine, with the throttle open spary some carburator cleaner into the intake.
Be careful, as the lip of the hole has a sharp edge: And here's the result from the engine bay: In the center of the distributor cap is the hi-tension lead to the ignition coil: Detach the connector from the cap by prying the locking tab out away from the cap, and pulling on the connector not the wire. Make sure that the positive wire is cut so that it is just long enough to reach. It is held in place with one bolt. Besides that The most frequent cause of problems is simply a bad contact in wiring connectors. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.
Close-up of metal fuel line and fitting: I found it easier to just remove the entire 'evaporative assembly' as shown here. To test these relays, swap them and then try to start the vehicle, or blow the horn. It is the power feed for the fuel pump. The Fuel Control Relay is the left relay and The Fuel Pump Relay is the right. I do not have a workshop manual cant find one in print here yet So will have to do some additional online research regarding location of timing belt.
I think it's a 7. Those are some resistance wich protect the injectors. Sorry the Fuel Pump Relay isn't in the fuse box, it's on the rear fire wall but it's connected to the turbo body loom. On the other side from the bolt is a swing bar - so just remove the single bolt and it will swing out of the way. To connect the new pump, in this case a Walbro pump, disconnect the stock pump and cut the wires to length.
. You don't have to remove the cables, you can leave then there, just when you remove the tank it will be a little in the way, but it's not a problem. This will also pull out the fuel inlet hose, if you like me could not get it to disconnect earlier. The tank removed: Close-up of the fuel lines on the tank. Jack the car up and set it on jack-stands or something that can support all four corners of the car.
Only attempt this if you are handy with wiring and electronics. Do you know of anywhere I can access a list of them? You might check for that. Then brake Engine died at the end of the road as if the ignition had been turmed off. There may also be an alternator charge light wire that needs hooked up and depending of what speedo drive electronic or cable you are using maybe a purple wire needs hooked up. It's fine to do this, some people even remove the resistor on the turbo cars even if it's a factory turbo car. Checked every fuse you never know! I learnt something new there.
Battery indicator shows a very healthy charge. Frustrating to say the least. Car shop is shut at the moment. Please try the search function before starting a new thread. Thanks Trev I've just got hold of a complete engine bay fuse box with all it's relays in so I'm going to swap one by one, if that don't eliminate my problem then this engines going to get a sledge hammer! Then remove the rear bracket held in place by two bolts.